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Travels in Persia: Iran in the accounts of its early travellers

For Europe, Iran was long known as Persia: the kingdom of Cyrus and Darius in Herodotus, the rival of Rome, then the empire of the Sasanians. Yet the first witnesses to describe it closely were not European. In the tenth century the Arabic-writing geographers Istakhri and Ibn Hawqal mapped its provinces, roads and cities. Around 1272 Marco Polo crossed Kerman and reached Hormuz on his way to China; in 1327 Ibn Battuta visited Isfahan and Shiraz.

In the fifteenth century Persia became a diplomatic card against the Ottomans. The Castilian Ruy González de Clavijo crossed it in 1403 to reach Tamerlane in Samarkand; the Venetians Giosafat Barbaro and Ambrogio Contarini were sent around 1474 to Uzun Hasan, ruler of Tabriz. In 1515 the Portuguese seized Hormuz, which they held until 1622.

The great age of travellers was that of the Safavids, above all Shah Abbas I (1588-1629), who made Isfahan his capital. The English brothers Anthony and Robert Sherley arrived in 1598; the Italian Pietro della Valle stayed from 1617 to 1623; the German Adam Olearius followed the Duke of Holstein's embassy in 1637. In the 1660s and 1670s the jewel merchants Jean-Baptiste Tavernier and Jean Chardin left the fullest descriptions of Isfahan, its bazaars, its court and the ruins of Persepolis, whose inscriptions Engelbert Kaempfer copied in 1685. Carmelites, Capuchins and Jesuits opened houses in Isfahan and Shiraz.

These travellers admired the royal square, the caravanserais, the gardens, the poetry of Hafez and Saadi; they also believed they saw an oriental despotism, which Montesquieu, steeped in their books, staged in his Persian Letters in 1721. The fall of Isfahan to the Afghans in 1722 closed that era.

In the nineteenth century Qajar Persia was contested between Russia and Britain. Diplomats, officers and archaeologists followed one another: Henry Rawlinson deciphered the Behistun inscription in the 1830s and 1840s, the painter Eugène Flandin and the architect Pascal Coste recorded the monuments in 1840 and 1841, and Jane and Marcel Dieulafoy excavated Susa from 1884 to 1886. The gaze also turned the other way: in 1873 Naser al-Din Shah published the diary of his journey to Europe, the first by a Persian sovereign.

This collection brings together our editions of eyewitness accounts and a directory of other early accounts of Iran.

Our titles on this subject

Further reading: accounts and works on the same theme

Accounts and works around this subject, in date order, to place our titles in context. Each links to a free online edition when one exists, or to our own page when the work is in our catalogue.