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Travels in Mesopotamia: Baghdad, Basra and Iraq in the accounts of early travellers

To Europe, Iraq was first Mesopotamia, the land between the rivers of the Bible and the Greeks: Herodotus described Babylon around 450 BC as a vast city, and in 401 BC Xenophon marched past Assyrian ruins whose name he did not know. But the country had its own witnesses. In 762 the Abbasid caliph al-Mansur founded Baghdad, his round city, which within a century became a capital of learning and trade; Arabic-writing geographers and historians, from al-Yaqubi in the ninth century to al-Khatib al-Baghdadi in the eleventh, described its quarters, canals and markets.

Travellers then came to it. Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela found a large Jewish community there around 1170; the Andalusian Ibn Jubayr admired its baths and preachers in 1184 but already thought it in decline; Ibn Battuta visited it in 1327, seventy years after the Mongol sack of 1258. The Ottomans took Baghdad in 1534 and Basra in 1546. As the gateway to the Persian Gulf, Basra became a stage on the route to the Indies: the Venetian Gasparo Balbi passed through in 1580, the English merchants John Eldred and Ralph Fitch travelled down the Euphrates and the Tigris in 1583, and the Carmelites settled there in 1623. In 1616 Pietro della Valle went looking for Babylon on the ground and brought back inscribed bricks.

These travellers saw brick cities under Ottoman governors, Arab tribes along the rivers, the southern marshes and their boatmen, and everywhere tells, mounds of ruins whose contents no one yet knew. The Dane Carsten Niebuhr identified the site of Nineveh opposite Mosul in 1766; the British Resident Claudius James Rich surveyed Babylon in 1811.

The nineteenth century turned Iraq into the rediscovered cradle of civilisation. Paul-Émile Botta, the French consul in Mosul, uncovered Khorsabad in 1843; Austen Henry Layard dug at Nimrud and Nineveh from 1845 to 1851 and shipped winged bulls to London; cuneiform was deciphered. In 1872 George Smith read on a tablet from Nineveh a flood story older than the Bible. Francis Chesney put steamers on the Euphrates in 1836, Robert Koldewey excavated Babylon from 1899 to 1917, and Gertrude Bell travelled the country before helping to shape the new state of Iraq in 1921.

This collection brings together our editions of eyewitness accounts and a directory of other early writings on Iraq.

Our titles on this subject

Further reading: accounts and works on the same theme

Accounts and works around this subject, in date order, to place our titles in context. Each links to a free online edition when one exists, or to our own page when the work is in our catalogue.