Far North

Travel narratives of the Far North and the Arctic

Around 325 BC the Greek Pytheas of Massalia sailed beyond Britain and reported a land called Thule, where the sun did not set in summer and the sea seemed to congeal. No one believed him, and for centuries the Far North remained an edge of the world full of rumour: griffins, fabulous peoples, whirlpools that swallowed ships. The first precise testimonies came from those who lived there. Around 890 the Norwegian Ohthere told Alfred the Great of his voyage round the North Cape to the White Sea and described the Sami, hunters and reindeer herders.

Scandinavian sailors went further. Setting out from Norway, they settled Iceland in the late ninth century; Erik the Red made his home in Greenland around 985, and his son Leif reached lands further west around the year 1000, which Icelandic tradition calls Helluland, Markland and Vinland. The site of L'Anse aux Meadows in Newfoundland has confirmed their presence. In the sixteenth century the exiled Swedish archbishop Olaus Magnus published in Venice a great map of the Nordic lands, the Carta marina (1539), then in Rome a history of the northern peoples (1555) in which observation still sits beside sea monsters.

The early modern age made the North both a route and a laboratory. The English and the Dutch looked there for a passage to China: Willem Barents wintered on Novaya Zemlya in 1596-1597 in a wooden house, and one of his companions kept a day-by-day chronicle; Martin Frobisher, Henry Hudson and many others battled with the Northwest Passage. Scientists followed. Linnaeus botanised in Lapland in 1732, and Maupertuis measured the flattening of the Earth there in 1736-1737. For Russia, Vitus Bering's Great Northern Expedition mapped Siberia and reached Alaska in 1741, where the naturalist Georg Wilhelm Steller described animals no European had seen.

In the nineteenth century the Far North became the stage for national rivalry and for epic. John Franklin's expedition vanished with all hands after 1845, and the searches launched to find it drew the map of the Canadian Arctic archipelago. Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld finally sailed the Northeast Passage in 1878-1879; Fridtjof Nansen let his ship, the Fram, drift with the pack ice from 1893 to 1896. From ancient marvel to scientific log, these Arctic narratives also tell of an apprenticeship: how to survive, dress and eat, and how much travellers had to learn from Arctic peoples.

By country: Canada · Finland · Greenland · Russia · Sweden · United States

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