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Who discovered Papua New Guinea? The accounts of the first explorers

New Guinea has been inhabited for at least fifty thousand years, since the time when it still formed a single continent with Australia. In the highland valleys, at Kuk, gardeners were draining swamps and growing taro and bananas nearly seven thousand years ago, making the island one of the world's oldest independent centres of farming. Around 1300 BC Lapita potters settled in the Bismarck Archipelago. Long before any European arrived, traders from the Moluccas bought birds of paradise on the western coasts.

The first European known to have landed was the Portuguese Jorge de Meneses, driven by the winds in 1526 to the western tip of the island, now part of Indonesia. He called it the Islands of the Papuas, from a Malay word thought to mean frizzy hair. In 1528 Álvaro de Saavedra coasted the north shore while looking for a way back to Mexico. In 1545 Yñigo Ortiz de Retes claimed the land for Spain and named it Nueva Guinea, because its people reminded him of those of Guinea in Africa. In 1606 Luis Váez de Torres sailed through the strait that divides it from Australia and showed it was an island, but his report lay buried in Spanish archives until 1762.

For the next two centuries sailors mostly kept their distance from a coast feared for its reefs and fevers. Jacob Le Maire and Willem Schouten passed New Ireland and the northern shore in 1616. William Dampier charted New Britain in 1700; Philip Carteret found in 1767 that a channel separates it from New Ireland; Bougainville gave his name in 1768 to the large island that now belongs to the country, and Bruni d'Entrecasteaux reached the islands named after him in 1793. Their logs tell of war canoes, iron bartered for pigs and coconuts, and arrows loosed from the beach.

In the nineteenth century the interior was still a blank. The Russian Nikolai Miklouho-Maclay lived on Astrolabe Bay from 1871 and wrote the first sustained description of a Papuan society. John Moresby surveyed in 1873 the harbour he named after his father, where the missionaries William Lawes and James Chalmers settled. The Italian Luigi Maria D'Albertis steamed up the Fly River in 1876. In 1884 Germany took the northeast and Britain the southeast, handed to Australia in 1906. Bronisław Malinowski studied the Trobriand Islands from 1915 to 1918.

The last great surprise came in 1933, when the prospectors Michael Leahy and Jim Taylor walked into the Wahgi Valley and found hundreds of thousands of highlanders whose existence no outsider had suspected. The country became independent in 1975.

This collection brings together our editions of eyewitness accounts and a directory of other early narratives about Papua New Guinea.

Our titles on this subject

Further reading: accounts and works on the same theme

Accounts and works around this subject, in date order, to place our titles in context. Each links to a free online edition when one exists, or to our own page when the work is in our catalogue.