By country

North Korea before communism: the land seen by its early travellers

Before 1945 there was no North Korea, only the northern half of a single kingdom, crossed by the great road that ran from the Korean capital to Beijing. Pyongyang, on the Taedong River, was reckoned the oldest city in the peninsula: capital of the kingdom of Goguryeo from 427, it treasured the legend of Gija, a Chinese sage said to have founded a dynasty there. Kaesong, further south, was the capital of the Goryeo kingdom from 919 to 1392, and Goryeo is where the name Korea comes from.

The first foreign witnesses were Chinese. In 1123 Xu Jing, envoy of the Song emperor, reached Kaesong by sea and brought home an illustrated account of the country, its palaces, its dress and its ships. In 1488 the scholar Dong Yue, ambassador of the Ming, described the road from the Yalu to the capital in a long prose poem. Europe heard only rumours: around 1254 the Franciscan William of Rubruck was told at the Mongol court of a land called Caule.

The richest testimony is Korean. Under the Joseon dynasty (1392 to 1910), the embassies sent each year to Beijing travelled through Kaesong, Pyongyang, Anju and Uiju before crossing the Yalu. Hundreds of travel diaries, the yeonhaengnok, record that journey from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century: post stations, banquets in the Yeonggwangjeong pavilion at Pyongyang, unease at the border. The most famous, the Jehol Diary of Park Ji-won, opens in 1780 with the river crossing.

Westerners came late, for the kingdom kept its doors shut. In 1797 the English navigator William Broughton sailed along the east coast, where a bay near Wonsan long bore his name; in 1854 the Russian frigate Pallada charted the same shore. In 1866 the American schooner General Sherman pushed up the Taedong to Pyongyang, where it was burned and its crew killed, among them the Welsh missionary Robert Jermain Thomas.

Once the country opened in 1876, visitors multiplied. In 1894 Isabella Bird travelled through the Diamond Mountains of Kumgang, then described Pyongyang laid waste by the Sino-Japanese War. Presbyterian and Methodist missionaries settled in the city, and the great revival of 1907 earned it the name of the Jerusalem of the East. Japan annexed Korea in 1910, and the division of 1945 began another story.

This collection brings together our editions of eyewitness accounts and a directory of other early writings on North Korea.

Our titles on this subject

Further reading: accounts and works on the same theme

Accounts and works around this subject, in date order, to place our titles in context. Each links to a free online edition when one exists, or to our own page when the work is in our catalogue.